Simple crocheted bag

When we were in transit, living in temporary accommodation when we first moved to Canberra, I was bored, needed a craft project, and needed a new handbag.  So I decided to combine the two and crochet one for myself.  We had no internet barring a tiny bit on our phones, all my crochet stuff was packed away in a shipping crate somewhere between Brisbane & Canberra, so I had no supplies, and no patterns.  I decided to wing it.

I bought some yarn (cheapie, $2 a ball stuff, but nice colours) and a hook, and started crocheting.

The finished product has had heaps of compliments, so here's what I did.  This is not a proper pattern, but it's so simple that hopefully anyone can follow it if they've done a little crochet before.  I use UK crochet terms, so convert into US if you need to.

I started with a chain roughly as long as I wanted the side of my bag to be.  In my case, it was about 30cm long.  I then worked in double-crochet in rows until it was as high/deep as I wanted the bag to be, and tied it off.

I repeated this, to be the other side of the bag.  So I had two rectangles, about 30cm by 20cm.

I then made a new chain, about 2 inches long, and worked double crocheted rows as long as I wanted the strap to be.  The strap needed to start at the bottom of the bag, pass across the front of my body up over the opposite shoulder, down my back, and around to the bottom of the bag.  It was basically going to be joined in a big loop (ie stitched together end-to-end), and the rectangles joined on either side opposite each other, with the rest of the loop forming the strap, leaving the top edge of each rectangle open.  Hopefully the pictures will help explain what I mean!

In the very middle of this picture, you can see the join of the ends of the strap at the bottom of the bag.

The strap was too long, in my case, and as soon as I put my purse, phone etc in my bag, it stretched.  It got really long!  To shorten it without pulling everything apart again, I worked out where the mid-point of the shoulder strap was, and folded some of the excess back under, and stitched all the layers together to make a padded section at the top of the shoulder.  The strap has stretched a bit more since, but there's only so far it can stretch, so it's OK now.

The padded section at the top of the strap.

I then crocheted a small rectangle (double crochet) which I stitched to the inside of one of the sides of the bag (stitched sides and bottom, leaving the top open to make a pocket).  It's handy for slipping keys or phone into, so that you can find them easily.  Lastly, I found a pattern for a crocheted flower, made one, and stitched it to the outside of the bag, for a little decoration.  Here are some free crochet flower patterns.

Flower detail

Pocket inside.  I stitched it only into the loops of yarn on the inside of the bag, so that no stitches would show through to the outside.

It was really quick to make, and it's still going strong!

Baby Hexagon Cardigan

 The concept of a hexagon cardigan is not my invention.  Again, I've built on what others before me have made, but I've added just a few differences which give the finished product a different look and feel.  Lots of the patterns you will see use a granny-square type stitch pattern - I personally feel it looks too chunky on a baby/small child.  I prefer what I've done - but that's purely personal preference.

This one was a project for my current bellybabe.  It's newborn size, and rather cute, if I do say so myself!

This is more or less what I did :)  Apologies if it's a bit vague - I am recording this after having completed the cardigan.  If you need any help following the instructions, please just ask!

I used 8ply Lincraft Cozy yarn (in this case, a lovely variegated yarn, and a matching yellow), a 4mm hook, and a 3.5mm hook.  Also, sewing thread in a coordinated colour, and 4 buttons.  I work in UK terms.

Make 2 of the below, worked in the round, using your main colour and 4mm hook.

Ch 6.  Join with sl st to first chain.
Rnd 1: ch 6 (counts as 1 tr, 3 ch). * 3tr into ring, 3ch ** (5 times), 2tr into ring, join with sl st into 3rd of the original 6ch in this round.
Rnd 2: sl st into middle of 3ch sp, ch 6 (counts as 1tr, 3ch). * 2tr into 3ch space, 1tr into each of the next 3 tr, 2tr into next 3ch space, 3ch ** (5 times), 1 tr into first 3ch space, before the 6ch from the start of the round, sl st into the 3rd ch.
Continue in this way until desired size is reached, adding a total of 4tr to each side each round.  For this cardigan, I had a total of 8 rounds.  Finish off.

Your hexagon will not sit flat, unlike a hexagon that you might make for a blanket or similar.  It's meant to be wibbly-wobbly.   Trust me :)

I actually prefer the look of this cardigan using the wrong side as the outside, but you can work to your preference, it makes absolutely no difference to the method.

Wrong sides together, stitch one side of each hexagon together from corner to corner.  This seam is the middle of the back of the cardigan.  It looks a pretty wonky shape at this stage.  Don't worry, it's about to all come together!

Fold each hexagon into a neat "L" shape.  Two of the sides will be folded in half.  The centre of each hexagon will form the armpit of the cardigan.  One arm of the "L" will form the sleeve; the other will form half the back, and half the front of the cardigan.

This is what your folded hexagon should look like

Still with wrong sides together, start at the wrist end of each arm, and stitch the top edge together, leaving about 2 inches unstitched.  This leaves room for baby's neck!  For a larger size cardigan, you may want to increase the amount left unstitched.  Have a play with it to see what works.

Now the basic cardigan is in shape.  Turn the right way out & continue as below.

Switching to your matching colour, and 3.5mm hook, join with a sl st anywhere on the wrist edge of one sleeve.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), and stitch 1tr in each tr around, 2tr in each ch sp where the sleeve join is.  When you reach the beginning, join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of the original 3ch/tr.  Ch 3 to begin next round, and then alternate front post trebles and back post trebles into the tr of the previous round, joining with a sl st into the 3rd ch of the original 3ch/tr.  Finish off.  This gives you a nice ribbed cuff that is slightly narrower than the sleeve. Repeat on the other sleeve.

Then to the cuff around the bottom of the cardigan, and the edging and buttonholes.  These are all going to be worked together, in the round, continuing with the matching yarn & 3.5mm hook.

Join yarn with a sl st at bottom front right corner.  Dc in each tr up the front of the cardigan.  5dc in 3ch space in the top corner of the first hexagon, and continue with a dc in each tr around the neck.  When you reach the back seam, st 2dc into each ch space and continue as before.  When you reach the left front of the neck, 5dc into 3ch space in the corner, and continue dc in each tr down the left front.  At the left bottom corner, 3dc in 5ch sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1tr into 3ch space, then 1 tr in each tr along the bottom of the cardigan, with 2tr in each ch space at the back seam.  Finish with 1tr into the first dc of the bottom right front corner.  Stitch 2dc into the side of the last tr you just made.  Dc into next 2 dc up the front, then ch 2, skip 1dc (forms first buttonhole) dc into next dc.  You will need to work out how many buttons you want (I used 4) and space the buttonholes evenly up the front right edge, leaving 1-1.5 inches free at the top which can be folded down as a little collar.  On my cardigan, there were 8dc between each buttonhole.

The top button is placed below the top corners to make the fit a little more comfortable

 Continue to dc in each dc of previous round.  In the front top corners, 3dc into 3rd of 5dc of previous round.  Continue around neck and down the other side.  When you reach the bottom corner, ch 3, and alternate front post trebles and back post trebles in each tr of previous round.  When you reach the bottom left corner, as for previous row, 2dc in the side of the last tr, and dc in each dc up the side (2dc in each 2ch button hole).  3dc in 2nd of the 3dc in each top corner, and continue to dc around and down to bottom left corner.  Finish off.

Detail of the ribbing

Now all that remains is to use a needle and thread to stitch on the buttons onto the left front edge, opposite each buttonhole.  I like to stitch mine on in a fleur-de-lis sort of style if it's a 4-hole button - just a little different to the normal ways of stitching on a button.  It's cute.

A different way to sew on a 4-hole button

Don't forget to weave in your ends.

You're all done!  Enjoy the adorableness.

I have done another similar cardigan previously.  I followed the same basic idea, except that I used tr around the neck instead of dc, to form a complete collar that can be folded down.  I also used a 4ply yarn & smaller hooks, and consequently more rounds.  I have noticed a similar looking one on Ravelry more recently (as in, the picture of it looks similar, but I have no idea how the pattern compares to what I did), but as I actually made this one months ago & made up the collar etc myself just by playing with it, I'm claiming ownership over it as my own work.

The other similar cardigan, also in a variegated yarn, with collar added.

Fingerless gloves

I have made a couple of pairs of gloves, for D and for S, from this pattern, and they turned out great.  But I wanted something a little different for myself, and I had this gorgeous 2ply merino/silk blend yarn that I had bought on a whim (which I rarely do).  There was no way I could use that pattern to make gloves for myself...so I altered it.

Mostly, I winged it, actually.  I did, thankfully, have the sense to start writing down what I was doing, part-way through the second glove.  And then once they were made, I tweaked it a bit more, to get the fit a little better, and made a second pair in the same yarn (but a different colour).  This time, you'll be glad to hear, I made the cream-coloured pair from my pattern, to check that it works!

My first pair, in a lovely pale green.  These are not identical to the second pair, as I changed the pattern a little more as I was testing it out & tweaking it.  

The completed second pair, in cream.

So, here it is.  Fingerless gloves in 2ply.

You will need the following: 1 ball of a nice fine 2ply yarn (I used Paton's Embrace 50gm, which is 90% merino/10% silk, 340m), and a 2.5mm hook.  Regarding the yarn, I made a pair of gloves with one ball, but only had a few inches to spare.  If you don't feel like playing yardage chicken, you may want two balls, but you would only use a little of the second ball.  If you make a mistake & have to frog back a bit, it'll stretch your yarn slightly & you may get some extra stitches out of it that way, but it wouldn't be my recommended method!

Please note that all patterns I write use UK/Aus terminology, and adjust accordingly if you're used to US terms!
Turning chains do NOT count as a dc in this pattern. Follow the same pattern for both right and left hands, until you get to the Fingers, which is where it changes. They are only small changes, but they just make each glove a tiny bit more comfortable for each hand, rather than having carbon copies that need to fit around your fingers.
To do a dc2tog, insert yarn into the work, yo, draw the yarn through (2 loops on hook), insert yarn into next stitch in work, yo, draw the yarn through (3 loops on hook), yo & draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Note that on the finished product, the fingers look a bit...wonky.  This is due to the shaping of the fingers.  When they're on your hands, this will not be an issue.

BOTH HANDS
Cuff:
Foundation chain: ch 21
Row 1: Dc in 2nd chain from hook & in each ch to end (20 dc), ch 1, turn.
Row 2-59: Dc in each dc of previous row, working through the back loop only (20 dc), ch 1, turn.
Row 60: DC in each dc of previous row, working through the back loop only (20 dc). Fold the cuff piece so that the starting edge is held next to the working edge, and join along these edges with sl st to form a complete cuff. Turn to RS out. Do not fasten off.

This is what the cuff looks like before joining. Stitching in the back loop only gives a ribbed effect.

Hand:
From here, you will be working in rounds, joining at the end of each round, but then turning and working back in the opposite direction, unless otherwise instructed.
Row 1: Ch 1, 61dc evenly around top of cuff (1 dc in side of every row of cuff plus 1 dc in the join; 61 dc), join with sl st to first dc of this row; ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 19 dc, inc 2dc in next st, 19 dc, inc 2dc in next st, 19 dc, inc 2dc in next st, 1 dc (64 dc), join with sl st to first dc of this row; ch 1, turn.
Row 3-8: Dc in each dc of previous row (64 dc); join with sl st in first dc; ch 1, turn.
Row 9: (Begin opening for thumb) Dc in each dc of previous row (64 dc), do NOT join; ch 1, turn.
Row 10-36: Dc in each dc of previous row (64 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 37: (Close top of thumb opening) Dc in each dc of previous row (64 dc); join with sl st in first dc; ch 1, turn.
Row 38-47: Dc in each dc of previous row (64 dc), join with sl st; ch 1, turn. Do not fasten off.

The beginning of the thumb opening.

Thumb opening closed with slip stitch (Row 37)

A few more rows of dc after the closing of the thumb hole.

RIGHT HAND
Fingers:
Row 48: 24dc, ch 5, skip next 17 dc, 23 dc (47 dc), join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Row 49: 24dc, 1dc in each ch, 23 dc, join with sl st (52 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 50-51: 52 dc; ch 1, turn.  Do not fasten off.

The 5 chains form the divide between the ring and little fingers (Row 48).  This will become more obvious as you keep working.

Row 48 from another angle.  A gap should be left unworked on the previous row.  You'll come back to this later.

Glove on hand with 5 chains between little & ring fingers.

Index Finger:
Row 1: 10 dc, ch 5, skip next 33 dc, 9 dc (19 dc), join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Row 2: dc in each st until start of chain, 1 dc in each ch, dc in each st until end of row, join with sl st (24 dc), ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 24 dc, join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 11dc, dc2tog, 10dc, join with sl st (22 dc). Fasten off.

Row 1 of Index Finger.  Again, 5 chains form the divide between the index and middle fingers.

Middle Finger:
Join yarn with sl st in one of the 5ch between index and middle finger.
Make sure that you are going to be stitching in the correct direction to continue the pattern.
Row 1: Dc in each ch until last, dc2tog (last ch, first dc on hand of glove***), 7 dc, ch 5, skip next 19 dc, 7 dc, dc2tog (last dc on hand of glove***, first ch), dc in each ch back to first dc (19 dc), join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 24 dc, join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 10 dc, dc2tog, 9 dc, join with sl st (22 dc). Fasten off.

Ring Finger:
Join yarn with sl st in one of the 5ch between middle and ring finger.
Make sure that you are going to be stitching in the correct direction to continue the pattern.
Row 1: Dc in each ch until last, dc2tog (last ch, first dc on hand of glove***), 19 dc, dc2tog (last dc on hand of glove***, first ch), dc in each ch back to first dc (24 dc), join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 24 dc, join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final Row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 10dc, dc2tog, 9dc, join with sl st. Fasten off.

Little finger:
Join yarn with sl st in one of 5ch between ring and little finger.
Make sure that you are going to be stitching in the correct direction to continue the pattern.
Row 1: Dc into each ch until last, dc2tog (last ch, first dc on hand of glove***), 17 dc, dc2tog (last dc on hand of glove***, first ch), dc in each ch back to first dc (22 dc), join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 22dc, join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final Row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 9 dc, dc2tog, 8 dc, join with sl st (20 dc). Fasten off.

Thumb:
Join yarn with sl st to top of thumb hole.
Row 1: Ch 1, 25 dc down side of thumb hole, dc2tog twice, 1 dc in bottom of thumb hole, 25 dc up the other side, dc2tog twice, 1 dc at top, join with sl st (56 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 23 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 22 dc to top, join with sl s (52 dc)t; ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 20 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 21 dc to top, join with sl st (48 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 4: dc in each st of previous row, join with sl st (48 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 5: 19 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 18 dc to top, join with sl st (44 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 6: 16 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 17 dc to top, join with sl st (40 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 7: dc in each st of previous row, join with sl st (40 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 8: 15 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 14 dc to top, join with sl st (36 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 9: 12 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 13 dc to top, join with sl st (32 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 10: dc in each st of previous row, join with sl st (32 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 11: 10 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 11 dc to top, join with sl st (28 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 12: 9 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 8 dc to top, join with sl st (24 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 13-16: dc in each st of previous row, join with sl st (24 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 17: 2 dc in first dc of previous row, 9 dc, dc2tog twice, 9 dc, 2dc, join with sl st (24 dc); ch 1, turn. Repeat Row 17 until thumb reaches desired length. Omit ch 1, turn on final row, and fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Yay!  One glove complete!

LEFT HAND
Follow glove pattern as above until end of Row 47.
Fingers:
Row 48: 23dc, ch 5, skip next 17 dc, 24 dc (47 dc), join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Row 49: 23dc, 1dc in each ch, 24 dc, join with sl st (52 dc); ch 1, turn.
Row 50-51: 52 dc; ch 1, turn.
Row 52: 9 dc, ch 7, skip next 33 dc, 10 dc (19 dc), join with sl st; ch 1, turn.

Index Finger:
Row 1: dc in each st until start of chain, 1 dc in each ch, dc in each st until end of row, join with sl st (24 dc), ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 24 dc, join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 10 dc, dc2tog, 9 dc, join with sl st (22 dc). Fasten off.

Middle Finger:
Join yarn with sl st in one of the 5ch between index and middle finger.
Make sure that you are going to be stitching in the correct direction to continue the pattern.
Row 1: Dc in each ch until last, dc2tog (last ch, first dc on hand of glove***), 7 dc, ch 5, skip next 19 dc, 7 dc, dc2tog (last dc on hand of glove***, first ch), dc in each ch back to first dc (19 dc), join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 24 dc, join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final Row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 11dc, dc2tog, 10dc, join with sl st (22 dc). Fasten off.

Ring Finger:
Join yarn with sl st in one of the 5ch between middle and ring finger.
Make sure that you are going to be stitching in the correct direction to continue the pattern.
Row 1: Dc in each ch until last, dc2tog (last ch, first dc on hand of glove***), 19 dc, dc2tog (last dc on hand of glove***, first ch), dc in each ch back to first dc (24 dc), join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 24 dc, join with sl st; ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final Row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 10dc, dc2tog, 9dc, join with sl st. Fasten off.

Little finger:
Join yarn with sl st in one of 5ch between ring and little finger.
Make sure that you are going to be stitching in the correct direction to continue the pattern.
Row 1: Dc into each ch until last, dc2tog (last ch, first dc on hand of glove***), 17 dc, dc2tog (last dc on hand of glove***, first ch), dc in each ch back to first dc (22 dc), join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 22dc, join with sl st, ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until finger reaches desired length.
Final Row: 1 dc, dc2tog, 9 dc, dc2tog, 8 dc, join with sl st (20 dc). Fasten off.

Thumb:
Follow instructions as for Right Hand Thumb.

Two gloves complete!

*** Special instructions required!! The first/last dc of the hand, in these cases, has actually been stitched in previously as well. The dc's joining the chains that separate each finger, have already been stitched into this same stitch. The reason you are stitching into this stitch again, is to avoid having a small hole between the base of each finger. Hopefully the photo illustrates what I mean. Be careful not to stitch into the side of the dc that joins the chain to the glove.

You might want to click to view this larger, if you are confused!

Please let me know if you find any errors in my pattern :)

(c) 2013 Kirsten Willis.  Please do the right thing.  Give credit where credit is due.

Crocheted Baby Beanie & Vest

I made these for a lovely friend who will be welcoming her second babe any day now.

The beanie is made from this pattern.
The vest***, I made up myself.  It hasn't actually been tested on a newborn, so I hope it fits!  Here's what I did, though.  Please note that all patterns I write are in UK terminology.
You will need: 1 x 50gm of 4ply wool, 3.5mm hook, 3 buttons, darning needle, matching thread for sewing on buttons.
Foundation Chain: ch 73.  The 3ch used for turning always counts as 1tr for this pattern.
Row 1: 1tr in 4th ch from hook, tr in each chain until end (70tr), 3ch, turn.
Row 2-11: 1tr in each tr of previous row until end (70tr), 3 ch, turn.
Row 12-13: dec 2tr together, 1tr in each tr of previous row until last 3 stitches.  Dec 2 tr together, 1 tr in final tr (68tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Now you'll start to shape the right front neck.
Row 14: dec 2tr together, 1 tr in next 6 tr of previous row, dec 2tr together, 1 tr (10tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Row 15: 1 tr in next 6 tr, dec 2tr together, 1 tr in last stitch (9tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Row 16: Dec 2tr together, 1 tr in next 6 tr of previous row (8tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Row 17: 1 tr in next 4 tr, dec 2 tr together, 1 tr (7tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Row 18-21: 1tr in each tr of previous row (7tr). Ch 3, turn.
Row 22: 1 tr in each tr of previous row (7tr).  Fasten off.
Now we go back and make the back section of the vest.
Row 14: Skip 13 tr on Row 13.  Join yarn in the 14th tr with a slip st. Ch 3.  Dec 2 tr together.  1tr in next 20 stitches.  Dec 2 tr together. 1tr in next stitch (24tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Row 15-21: 1 tr in each tr of previous row (24tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Shaping back right shoulder.
Row 22: Dec 2 tr together.  1tr in next 5 tr.  (7tr) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders together.
Shaping back left shoulder.
Row 22: Skip 8tr on Row 21 of back.  Join yarn with slip st in 9th st.  Ch 3.  Dec 2 tr together. 1tr in next 5 tr.  (7tr) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders together.
Shaping left front neck.
Row 14: Skip 13tr on Row 13.  Join yarn in the 14th tr with a slip st.  Ch 3.  Dec 2 tr together. 1 tr in next 6 tr of previous row.  Dec 2 tr together. 1 tr.  (10tr) Ch 3, turn.
Row 15: Dec 2 tr together.  1tr in next 7 tr (9tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Row 16: 1 tr in next 5 tr, dec 2 tr together, 1 tr (8tr).  Ch 3, turn.
Row 17: Dec 2 tr together. 1 tr in next 5 tr (7tr). Ch 3, turn.
Row 18-21: 1 tr in each tr of previous row (7tr). Ch 3, turn.
Row 22: 1 tr in each tr of previous row (7tr). Fasten off.
Sewing together & finishing off.
Using tail left from back shoulders, with right sides facing, stitch vest together at shoulders.
Join yarn with a slip st at any stitch of Row 14 on an armhole. DC evenly around armhole, joining with a slip st into first dc. Fasten off. Repeat on other armhole.
Join yarn with a slip stitch at Row 1. DC evenly up the front right side of the vest, continuing around neck, and back down the left side. When you reach Row 12 of the left side, ch 3, skip a stitch, dc into next st, dc evenly until Row 6, ch 3, skip a st, dc into next st, dc evenly until Row 2, ch 3, skip a st, dc into next st, dc evenly around bottom of vest. Continue dc up the right front again, slip st in first dc on Row 12. Fasten off.
Stitch buttons on matching rows on right side of vest. Weave in ends.

Please alert me if you find any errors in this pattern.  Writing up your own patterns is always a little hazardous...especially when you're doing it based on memory & looking at the finished work! :)

*** This pattern is my own.  Please give credit where credit is due.